Questions & Answers

Replacing an existing fan (same location) typically costs $150–$350 including labor. Installing a new fan where none existed — requiring new wiring, ducting, and exterior penetration — runs $300–$700. Adding a timer switch or combination fan/light adds to the cost.

Electric radiant floor heating uses thin heating mats or cables installed under tile, stone, or engineered flooring. A typical bathroom needs a dedicated 15-20 amp circuit and a programmable thermostat with a floor sensor. The mats are installed during the flooring phase, so plan the electrical before tile work begins. Cost is about $8-$15 per square foot for materials.

The outlet may have a loose connection that provides intermittent power, or it's a switched outlet that's turned off. Try plugging a lamp into the same outlet to test. If the lamp also doesn't work, the outlet has a wiring issue. If only USB devices fail, the outlet's internal components may be worn.

Yes. Adding a new circuit, outlet, or any wiring that involves 120V or higher requires an electrical permit. Even if it seems like a small job, it's permitted work. Through L&I, a simple alteration permit for adding a circuit costs about $40-60 and takes 10 minutes to buy online. It's cheap and protects you — unpermitted work found during a home sale can be a real headache.

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A dedicated circuit serves only one appliance or outlet and has its own breaker. You need dedicated circuits for refrigerators, microwaves, dishwashers, garbage disposals, washers, dryers, water heaters, furnaces, air conditioners, and high-power tools. Dedicated circuits prevent overloading and ensure these critical appliances get the power they need.

Fuse boxes use fuses that blow (burn out) when overloaded and must be replaced. Circuit breaker panels use switches that trip when overloaded and can simply be reset. Fuse boxes were standard in homes built before the 1960s. If you still have a fuse box, we strongly recommend upgrading to a modern circuit breaker panel for safety, convenience, and increased electrical capacity.

If kitchen GFCI outlets trip frequently, possible causes include: overloaded circuits (too many appliances), faulty appliances with ground faults, moisture in outlets, or cumulative leakage from multiple devices. We can diagnose the cause — sometimes it's just an old toaster with a minor fault, sometimes it's a wiring issue.

The exhaust fan motor itself is typically not required to be GFCI-protected if it's hardwired (not plug-in). However, any outlets in the bathroom must be GFCI-protected, and fan/light combos should follow the outlet rules if they have a receptacle.

Myth. Current NEC requires GFCI protection in bathrooms, kitchens (countertop outlets), garages, outdoors, basements, crawl spaces, laundry areas, near pools and hot tubs, and near sinks (within 6 feet). The code has expanded GFCI requirements over the years. If your home only has them in bathrooms, many areas are unprotected. Adding GFCI outlets or breakers is an inexpensive safety upgrade.

Match the fan to your bathroom size: 1 CFM per square foot is the minimum. A standard 5x8 bathroom needs at least 50 CFM. A larger master bath (100+ sq ft) needs 100+ CFM. If the fan has a long duct run or multiple elbows, upsize by 20-30% to compensate for airflow loss. For bathrooms with a jetted tub, go bigger — more moisture to remove.

Electrical permit fees vary by jurisdiction but typically range from $75-$300 for residential work in Western Washington. The cost depends on the scope — a simple circuit addition costs less than a full panel upgrade. Your electrician includes the permit fee in their quote. The inspection is included in the permit fee.

Yes. We can add ceiling lights, wall sconces, or pendant lights to rooms that don't have them. It involves running new wiring from an existing circuit or the panel, cutting in a ceiling or wall box, and installing a switch. It's one of the most impactful upgrades you can make to a room.

A main breaker panel has a large breaker at the top that can shut off all power to the panel. A main lug panel has no main breaker — power feeds directly to the bus bars. Main lug panels are typically used as subpanels where the main panel's breaker serves as the disconnect. A main lug panel used as the main panel requires a separate disconnect outside.

A general rule is one recessed light per 4-6 square feet of ceiling space, spaced evenly. For a 12x12 room, 4-6 lights typically work well. But it depends on ceiling height, light output, and how you use the room. We can design a layout during your free estimate.

Occasional flickering when a large appliance kicks on (like an AC unit) can be normal. But persistent flickering across multiple rooms usually points to a loose connection, an overloaded circuit, or a problem with your electrical panel. If it's constant or getting worse, have an electrician inspect your wiring.

WAC 296-46B-110 has strict rules for electrical equipment exposed to water or submersion. All breakers, fuses, controllers, receptacles, switches, dimmers, heaters, and sealed devices (relays, contactors, etc.) must be replaced — no exceptions. All other equipment including wiring, panelboards, disconnect switches, motors, transformers, appliances, and water heaters must either be replaced or reconditioned by the original manufacturer or their approved representative. You cannot simply dry out and reuse flood-damaged electrical equipment. This is a safety-critical requirement that applies after any flooding or water exposure event.

WAC 296-46B-422 requires that electric water heaters rated over 3,500 watts at 208 or 240 volts must have branch circuit conductors no smaller than #10 AWG copper or equivalent. Overcurrent protection must comply with NEC 422.11(E). This is a Washington-specific amendment that goes beyond the NEC minimum. For replacing a water heater like-in-kind, it's considered Class A basic electrical work and doesn't require a permit. But if you're upgrading to a larger unit or changing the circuit, a permit is required.

WAC 296-46B-334 amends the NEC for NM cable use in Washington. NM, NMC, and NMS cable can be used in multifamily and other structures of Types III, IV-HT, and V construction (as determined by the building official — documentation must be provided to the inspector). In non-dwelling structures, the cable must be concealed within walls, floors, or ceilings with at least a 15-minute finish rating. NM cable can be run outdoors inside conduit if: the cable remains unbroken from building interior to termination, no flexible metal conduit is used, conduit runs don't exceed 10 feet or go below grade, and conduits are sealed and arranged to drain. Crawl space requirements for NM cable protection don't apply.

WAC 296-46B-700 through 702 cover emergency, legally required standby, and optional standby systems. All exit and emergency lights must be installed per NEC Article 700. Equipment boxes and enclosures larger than 6x6 inches must be permanently identified with orange identification plates. Generator disconnecting means can be outside the building within sight and within 15 feet, and don't need to be "suitable for use as service equipment" if there's separate feeder overcurrent protection elsewhere. Signs identifying the generator system must be posted at the service disconnect and meter base. A system design review is required when multiple power sources are interconnected.